I can't believe how long I'm drawing out the writing process for reporting about the trip Feb 2 - 11. I am definitely in the homestretch now!
Tuesday, February 8 was our desert day: Masada, Ein Gedi, Qumran, The Dead Sea.
Even though I was in Masada 5 years before it is still exciting – and still heartrending to visit. From 37 BC - 4 AD Masada was Herod's winter palace - and veritable stronghold because of its position.
The historian Josephus reports that after Herod died this area was annexed to Rome, and the Romans stationed a garrison there. One of the first events of the Great Revolt of the Jews against the Romans (which began in 66 A D) was the conquest of Masada. And - it was the last stronghold to fall. After the destruction of Jerusalem in 70 AD, the remaining rebels fled to Masada. They held out until sometime in 73 or 74 AD - when they realized the Roman forces were going to overtake them. Rather than be taken into captivity – and have their women abused – they decided to end their lives. Men killed their own families. Then those who were left drew lots to determine who would kill the last ‘other’ person. The last person had to commit suicide – something unforgivable in Jewish belief. According to Josephus two older women and five children hid to avoid the slaughter. They were the only ones left to tell the story. To me they were the ones who held onto life and hope. It would have been terrifying to be faced with either choice – what they feared, or what they could control – but by doing what they did they ended all possibility. I have a very personal bias against their choice – even though I understand it.
Suicide is a permanent solution to what is often a temporary problem. Theirs was a difficult choice - but since my mother committed suicide when I was 7 years old, I really, really hate suicide. It takes God out of the equation and denies hope. They terminated their family lines. That is heartbreaking.
Visiting the area and seeing the footprint of the palace on the hillside and all of the partial walls of homes and shops is a wonderful opportunity to get close to history. I took lots of pictures!
Our next stop was the lowest waterfall @ the Ein Gedi Kibbutz – natural springs in the desert! David was here! He was hiding in one of the caves we saw when Saul went in – not knowing David was inside. David could have killed him. Instead he cut off a portion of the hem of his garment as proof that he meant him no harm.
Then on to Qumran – where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered in 1947. There are many caves – and we saw those visible from the viewing area, with Cave 4 very close to us. The scrolls are housed in The Shrine of the Book in Jerusalem – though it is actually carefully crafted original-looking copies that people actually view.
Our final tourist spot in the desert was The Dead Sea – some of us went in! It made my skin soooooo soft. I love that feeling.
Hanan came over that evening after dinner, retrieved his coat, the turtle and bowl Al carved for him, and the beef jerky I brought – and he brought his dog for me to meet. He tentatively planned to join us for the morning – but I said goodbye just in case…. I knew he had to work, so might not be up to joining us for a 7:30 departure.
I got to visit with a small group of tour members before going to bed – which was pure joy! And thus ended another perfect day!
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